![]() I can explain these three quite well (I hope). Giving more negative camber will allow your car to stick to the road and give better handling, but camber is somewhat difficult to understand and you should learn about how to adjust camber. These allow to adjust the camber and caster. I am liking the SPC camber kits, but I want to wait until they have the real camber kits as well as the front to make sure. I just find it strange the dealer blamed it on roads, rather than it could be out of spec because Nissan didn't do it right at the factory - it just got me thinking about it again.Īre there any alignment settings that anyone could recommend? Preferably something a little more aggressive than factory. I mean, how much force is needed to knock the wheel out 1deg - or cause the camber to move. I guess my point of view is that nothing should shift, short of a failure (be it a bend, break, etc).it's been something I've been wondering about for a while. The money you save on tires will generally pay for the alignments. ![]() Good idea to get one done when new by a quality shop who specializes in alignments, then get it tweaked once a year if you live in an area plagued by bad roads. ![]() Taking a hit to a wheel can shift the subframe slightly therefore throwing the car out of alignment.Ī shifted subframe will take 2 wheels out of alignment, not just the one that took the hit.Ĭonsider Alignments a normal maintenance item. Secondly, most lower suspension arms are bolted to subframes, which are in turn bolted to the chassis. ![]() My New Corvette had 3 of the 4 wheels out of spec. In reality they have but a few minutes on the assembly line to get all 4 wheels adjusted. First, assuming your alignment is spot on from the factory Makes you a very optimistic guy. I guess I'm trying to wrap my head around how a few bumps could knock the alignment off on a car, without bending or breaking something.Ĭouple of things actually. seriously? A new car, that has alignmnet issues on 3 of 4 wheels, could be attributed to a few bumps and not having driven over a single pothole? You gave the detail response I was shooting for. If the car hit’s a point or points where the car should not hit then it is obvious something that is not supposed to happen can or just has happened. These parts are placed and tightened the way they are for a purpose and these cars are made to not be driven where jeeps can be driven. But all this to me seams like common sense. Now I’m no suspension expert if anything I’m far from it. That means something is loose, bent, or about to fall apart. Putting the car in reverse or first gear from a dead stop and you hear a tiny click or a pitch in one of the components. If you hit a pot hole had enough you will feel it after that. Ball joints, lower or upper control arm, bearings, etc. And if its not that poor judgment it can be one of the components ready to snap or fall apart. A messed head can make poor judgment at a wrong time. Or say your holding the steering wheel at an ever so light left, but the car continues to drive in a straight path. The screwed up alignment will cause your car to steer on its own while you are in fact holding that steering wheel properly. That bend twist or off movement screws up the alignment. You hit a bump or something, everything moves the right way but that one piece (or more if you hit it hard enough) and that component takes stress at the wrong angle or in the wrong part of the bar which is a weak point. Hitting a pot hole can (even though the bolts are tightened correctly) jolt one of the components a skew which does brake that alignment that what used to work like clock work now does not. The suspension mechanics and components are all aligned a way to work and react with each others movements. I don’t care if your driving a hummer Pot holes and bumpy roads will cause problems for any car at some point.
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